I found this information on how to build a deer stand another deer hunting forum, I hope they don’t mind me reposting it here.

Sorry I don’t have a picture but I’ll try to explain how I build my ladder stands. I only use pressure treated lumber and plywood and ring shank 16penny nails or 3inch sheetrock screws (galvanized is best) for the body of the stand and I attatch to the tree with 40 penny spikes. Staring with the seat I use a 2ft by 2ft piece of 3/4inch pt plywood that I paint with some kind of waterseal product until it will no longer suck up anymore. Cut a 6 inch v notch in one side (this will go up against the tree) mount the seat on 2 parallel 4ft long 2X4′s leaving 4 inches of the 2×4 exposed on the front (v on the back) with the narrow side of the 2×4′s against the plywood. Now get 2 16ft long 2×4′s and place them inside the 2×4′s holding the seat (agian narrow side up) to get the spacing for the ladder rungs (should be around 18 inches) now square up the 2 16ft 2×4′s and starting from the top measure down 18 inches (this is the most comfortable distance I’ve found) for the top rung. Then just place a step every 18 inches til you get to the bottom use 2 nails or screws in each side of each step (if the pt is old and dry it helps to predrill holes to keep down splitting). Now you have a top piece and a ladder lay the top piece on its side and place the ladder inside the 2 2×4 with the notch in the back and the ladder at about 10 degrees off vertical (makes for easier climbing if not straight up) now use nails or screws to attach the ladder to the seat assembly (I put 3 or 4 from each side and cinch them down by bending the points over) now you have a basic ladder stand. The best way I’ve found to put them on the tree is to use and extension ladder. Get a friend to help you lean the stand up against the tree and move the legs out until the seat is level (the 2 ft legs behind the seat should extend past the tree that you are mounting it on) now climb the ladder and attach a piece of 2×4 to the top of the seat rails with nails or screws so that the board is tight to the tree. then drive a 40 penny spike thru the short board into the tree, this will hold it to the tree . Sorry I forgot you need to make 2 braces. You’ll need 2 4ft long 2×4′s these are to be nailed just forward of the back of the plywood and down to the ladder on either side to give the stand support (make a triangle several steps down with these and attach inside the seat 2×4′s and outside the ladder 2×4′s again use several nails or screws from each side. Now with the stand attached to the tree if you would like you can make a shooting/safety rail by attaching 2 4ft long 2×4′s at the junction of the ladder and the seat down to the braces . I’ve found that by angling them slightly forward with 21 inches above the seat level and the bottom (or excess attached to the braces and then putting another 4ft long 2×4 on the top then take 2 more 4ft 2×4′s and attach them back from the front rail to the tree (it helps to hold the side rails against the tree and cut the front rail at an angle to make the joint tighter) then use nails or screws to attach to front rail and 40 penny spikes to the tree. Now all you need is a back rest- 12inch by 18 inch piech of plywood placed at a comfortable angle and attached to the seat and the tree and you have a tree stand. I hang camo cloth from the shooting rail all the way around for conceilment and use a boat cushion for comfort and a pull up rope for my gun and I’m ready to go. Hope this helps. -rugerman

Everyone needs to give a big thanks to Will for finding these plans online. I couldn’t find anything like this after many hours of searching.

Original plans found here.

Edit: I just realized these deer stand plans are being sold. I have taken them down because I don’t want to break any copyrights or anything. My apologies to the designer of these deer stand plans, Charles Abney.

I just wanted to mention another site that just popped up relating to how to build a deer stand.

There isn’t many deer stand plans on it yet, but they should be showing up sometime soon.

It is hard to find some good step by step deer stand plans anywhere on the internet. Right now, I’m working on putting together a new deer stand for our lease out in Texas. I’m going to document the entire deer stand building process with pictures/video/instructions and I should have it finished and put together in an easy to use downloadable format in a couple days, so stay tuned for when that gets finished.

Have you had the experience of building a deer stand recently?  Share your experience with everyone by leaving a comment on this site, or sending an e-mail to eric@deerstandplans.net.  If you took pictures along the way, that’s great!  If you have detailed drawings and parts lists, even better!  But none of that stuff matters, even if you can just share some simple tips to make the process of building a deer stand easier, we’d love to hear them!  So share your deer stand plans with the world!

I don’t have any plans on how to build a deer stand on paper, just figured out a design I like. Let me see if I can figure out the dimensions of the ones I’ve built.

How To Build A Deer Stand:

Legs: (4) 16′ 4×4′s
Leg Cross Braces: (8) 12′ 2×4′s
Floor Joists: (4) 2×6′s 45″ long, (2) 2×6′s 4′ long
Floor: (2) 1/2 sheets 3/8″ plywood (48″ square), cut 3 3/4″ square out of each corner.
Sides: (4) pieces of 3/8″ plywood 34″‘x45″, one will be cut up later to make a door
Roof Supports: (4) 2×4′s 48″ long
Roof Rafters: (3) 2×4′s 35″ long, (2) 2×4′s 48″ long
Roof: (2) pieces of 3/8″ plywood 28″x48″ (the scraps from cutting the sides out of (2) full sheets)
Ladder: (2) 12′ 2×4′s, (8) 2×4′s 16″ long (can be cut from (1) 12′ 2×4, with one piece to spare)

Build ladder with 16″ spacing to the top of each step, measuring from the bottom.
Set posts in ground 2 foot deep in concrete 45″ between outside corners.
Nail on diagonal cross braces, one set inside, one set outside, all the way around.
Nail on floor joists 10′ above the ground, use (2) 45″ and (2) 48″ to make a 48″ square.
Nail on the last (2) floor joists 16″ on center in the middle of the floor frame.
Drop in first floor piece and screw it down.
Drop in second floor piece and screw it down. This gives a 3/4″ floor without wasting half a sheet of 3/4″ plywood.
Put up both sides and the front, they should go corner to corner of the 4×4′s and set on top of the floor, leave the back open for now.
Cut off the 4×4′s even with the top of the sides.
Nail the roof supports to the insides of the 4×4′s so that the tops are 6′ above the floor.
Nail the roof rafters to the tops of the roof supports, use (2) 48″ pieces and (2) 35″ pieces to make a rectangle 48″x38″.
Nail the last 38″ roof rafter in the center of the roof frame turned flat.
Screw the (2) pieces of the roof on top of the frame with the joint on the flat 2×4 in the center.
To make the door, cut the back piece into (2) pieces, one 34″x21″, one 34″x24″ (the door), and hinge it at the cut.
You’ll need (2) more 2×4′s, one 34″ long, one 16″ long, to make the frame for the non-opening part of the back. You’ll have to angle nail these two pieces to the floor and the 4×4 in the corner. The door will close against the outside of the 4×4 in the other corner. A hasp wrapped around the corner will keep the door closed.

I hope this description makes sense.

Here’s the materials list: You won’t believe how little wasted material you have if you build a deer stand right.

(12) 12′ 2×4′s, (one for the (3) 35″ roof rafters and the 34″ piece for the back)
(4) 16′ 4×4′s
(3) 8′ 2×6′s
(3) 8′ 2×4′s
(3) 4′x8′ sheets 3/8″ plywood
(2) 80 lb bags or (4) 40 lb bags of Quikrete
Nails, Screws, Hinges, and Hasp